Natural Wonders of the Magnificent North West

Scoop Traveller #18, Juiy - December 2010
Scoop | 30 Jun 2010

Australia’s North West is a must-do-before-I-die ‘bucket list’ destination for the world’s best divers, fishers, 4WDers, naturalists, marine biologists, geologists, sailors, pilots, windsurfers, adventurers, celebs, the world’s rich ‘n’ shameless and lovers of five-star luxury cruising.

Scoop Traveller goes beyond the obvious to showcase both the internationally renowned and some of the lesser know natural wonders of this ancient land. Starting just 2.5 hours drive time from Perth, find a long weekend or a whole month if you can between June and November to discover what the rest of the world already knows.

Shark Bay World Heritage Area | Coral Coast
Considered one of the most beautiful stretches of coastline in the world – and one of the most biologically diverse areas on the planet. A pristine environment covering more than 2.2 million hectares, it has an abundance of flora and fauna that will take your breath away. It was the State’s first World Heritage-listed area and is one of only two in WA. It has three exceptional features: the biggest and richest sea-grass beds in the world; its dugong population; and its stromatolites. Plus, the islands are the last stronghold for four critically endangered mammals (such as the rufous hare wallaby), which don’t live in the wild anywhere else. Located 800km above Perth: turn off North West Coastal Highway at Overlander Roadhouse and it’s 128km along Shark Bay Road to Denham.

DID YOU KNOW One eighth of the world’s dugong population is found here. History states these ‘sea cows’ were mistaken for mermaids by sailors – considering they’ve faces only a mother could love, we say that’s a natural wonder in itself. Check them out on a tour boat.                                           

Ningaloo Reef | Coral Coast
It’s Australia’s largest fringing reef and in places is easily accessible due to being just metres from the beach, as opposed to the Great Barrier Reef, which is located offshore and accessible only by boat. It’s here where you can swim with a huge ‘shark’ and not get eaten (the only place in Australia where you can do this). The whale sharks are about from late March to early July (so get in quick to catch them). The southernmost point of the reef is at Coral Bay, about 250km north of Carnarvon off Coral Bay Road.

DID YOU KNOW It’s a big deal that you can swim with whale sharks – the only other places are in Africa, the Gulf of Mexico and Indonesia.

The stromatolites | Coral Coast
Would you believe that these strange-looking forms are some of the oldest living things on Earth? Hamelin Pool Marine Nature Reserve is one of only two or three places in the world where you can see living marine stromatolites, which are built (and are still being built) by microbes that are billions of years old. Exposed at low tide in Hamelin Pool, these structures are an awe-inspiring example of the beginning of life on this planet. The turn-off is 30km or so along Shark Bay Road, about 90km before you get to Denham, in the Shark Bay World Heritage Area.
TIP Keep an eye on tide charts as visibility of these ancient living structures varies depending on tidal movement.

Turtle nesting season | Pilbara
Thousands of marine turtles nest at night on the Pilbara beaches from October to February each year. The beaches near Port Hedland are likely spots to see them. Several species nest there, including the hawksbill – of which WA has the only big population left in the Indian Ocean – and the big loggerhead, which can get up to 150kg in weight. Sea turtles may live up to 100 years but no one’s sure, and it can take up to 50 years for them to reach sexual maturity. Females lay 40-125 eggs at a time, so when the hatchlings emerge about seven weeks later, the scene is absolutely spectacular.
TIP Turtles are protected, so don’t disturb them. Find the Turtle Watcher’s Code of Conduct at www.dec.wa.gov.au/content/view/2462/1818/1/3.

Rowley Shoals | The Kimberley
Want to see some of the world’s most untouched coral gardens? Rowley Shoals Marine Park is considered one of the world’s most pristine diving areas. It’s 300km west of Broome (to get there you go through some of the State’s prime game fishing zones), and rises spectacularly from the edge of Australia’s continental shelf where it experiences five-metre tides. These three coral atolls have been hailed as near-perfect examples of atoll geomorphology (Google it) and are home to 600 species of fish, including two-thirds of the tropical species found in Australia. Boat tours are available.
TIP The water’s so warm you’ll need only a thin wetsuit or a rash vest.

Shell Beach | Coral Coast
It’s called Shell Beach, but did you know it really is made from shells? The shells on the beach extend down 10m and stretch along 120km of coastline (80km is accessible to all, and the rest is 4WD or limited access only). It’s created from billions of tiny shells of the coquina bivalve shellfish, which have existed here in huge numbers for thousands of years. After dying a natural death (these shellfish have no predators), they wash up on the shore. This beach’s unusual composition makes it one of only two in the world that shares its characteristics – the other being in South America. So, it’s one of the rarest beaches of its type in the world. Shell Beach is 45km south-east of Denham along Shark Bay Road.
DID YOU KNOW You’ll see these shells used in nearby Denham in the walls of buildings, such as the Old Pearler Restaurant.

Boab Prison Tree | The Kimberley
It’s 1500 years old and has a 15m-diameter girth – it’s the Boab Prison Tree in Derby. While this one has its place in history because it was once used as an overnight gaol for Aboriginal prisoners (there is another in Wyndham), the story of the boab is a bigger one. Also found in Africa and Madagascar, there are eight species and we have one of them. To this day, there is no explanation as to how it took root here. Tourists used to be able to step inside the ‘prison’, but today it’s fenced off and all boab trees are protected by law. It’s about seven kilometres south of Derby.
TIP Have morning tea or a picnic lunch at the nearby gazebo or head into Derby for an avenue of boabs in the main street (it’s Tim Burton-esque at night, and beautiful during the day).

Five Rivers Lookout | The Kimberley
Five mighty Australian rivers – the Ord, Forrest, King, Durack and Pentecost – meet, merge and flow into the Cambridge Gulf at this spot in the eastern Kimberley. It’s an amazing experience to watch the convergence of waters flowing out to sea at this lookout at the summit of the Bastion Range (about 330m above sea level), which rises sharply out of mud flats below. Just a few minutes by car out of Wyndham, the Five Rivers Lookout overlooks this historic town.
TIP Another attraction near Wyndham is the Grotto, a deep rock pool where you can cool off (there’s even a Tarzan rope).

Horizontal Falls | The Kimberley
A horizontal waterfall? Well, technically it’s not, but it sure looks like one. The Horizontal Falls are at Talbot Bay in the Buccaneer Archipelago, 120km from Derby. You can only get there by air or sea. Water surges in and out between two narrow gorges, moving with twice-daily tides of up to 12m. As the water flows back and forth between two openings, the difference in sea level creates the waterfall. To watch them is a complete rush – literally.
TIP Book a scenic flight or cruise from Broome or Derby.

Diamonds | The Kimberley
Here’s one natural wonder you can take home – preferably on your finger and set in platinum. WA produces 90 per cent of the world’s pink diamonds. This rare (and expensive) diamond has fans including Nicole Kidman. No one’s sure how they get their colour but it’s thought pressure underground brings the diamond towards the surface, causing structural change that absorbs light and produces colour. It’s in the far north where Tiffany’s sources its exquisite yellow diamonds.
TIP On your itinerary, include a daytrip by light aircraft to the Bungle Bungle, with lunch at a diamond mine: you can cover two natural wonders with one flight.

Montgomery Reef | The Kimberley
This reef rises from the sea at low tide. Water cascades off the sides as the sea level drops to reveal beautiful corals, vast lagoons, sandstone islets and a central mangrove island. About 5km off the shore starting above Doubtful Bay 170km north of Derby, it’s considered one of the most spectacular coral reefs in the world due to this tidal phenomenon (10m tides). While the sight and the sound of the water falling from the reef are spectacular, the wildlife is also a drawcard, as this 300sqkm reef system is home to sea turtles, reef sharks and dugongs. You’ll also see birds swooping on fish trapped on the reef.
TIP Don’t go it alone: head out to experience this phenomenon with a charter boat company or enjoy a visit to this amazing reef as part of a luxury cruise.

Wolfe Creek Crater | The Kimberley
Talk about a hole in one – Wolfe Creek Crater (made infamous by the movie, but incorrectly spelt Wolf Creek) was formed by a giant meteorite 300,000 years ago. The 50,000-tonne meteorite crashed at 15km per second, leaving the second biggest crater in the world (880m across), from which meteorite fragments have been collected. Walk to the rim and be over-awed by its enormity. Enjoy an other-worldly experience with it at sunset and sunrise.
TIP It’s 145km out of Halls Creek on a rough road, but it’s worth the trip. Moves to upgrade and seal the road are underway. We suggest roughing it by staying the night (the camp ground has basic facilities).

Buccaneer Archipelago | The Kimberley
One of those truly awe-inspiring landscapes that needs to be seen from high above, and at sea and ground level, so book a seaplane or boat. Thirty minutes by plane off Derby, it’s part of a ‘drowned coastline’ with 800-1000 rocky islands of huge sandstone formations up to 2500 million years old. Rich in fauna and flora, it’s a beautiful and isolated part of the world. One of the islands is said to have 11 species of snake, including the taipan; there are saltwater crocodiles living in the water and mangrove fringes; and sea snakes dwell in the ocean with the sharks. However, people who have been here say the danger is not apparent and, from all reports, no one’s been hurt while on tour – so expect to return! Also on the up side, this place is home to one of the world’s richest iron ore deposits (Cockatoo Island).
TIP Take radio and survival equipment, and watch out for said wildlife. Or let someone else do the worrying and book a cruise from Derby. There are luxury cruises ex Broome and Kununurra, so you can conquer the wilds with a champagne in hand.

Bungle Bungle Range | The Kimberley
We all know the ‘Bungle Bungles’, as we call it, but did you know that while this range is more than 20 million years old, it has only been on the non-Indigenous radar since 1983 when a film crew accidentally came across it? In 1987, its location – Purnululu (Aboriginal for sandstone) – was made a national park, and this tourist destination was born. It has been on the Indigenous map for many thousands of years, however, and Aboriginal people traditionally headed here in the wet season for food. This area is also known to be rich in art and there are burial sites.
TIP A night camping here is worth the trip (150km from Halls Creek by 4WD). But check the weather before you go: if there’s the slightest wind, it whips up the dust. When camping (or just daytripping), ensure you watch, or time your visit with, the sunset or rise – the view of the sun through the striped mounds is one not to be missed. And ensure you book a helicopter flight – these formations are best viewed from air.

Tunnel Creek | The Kimberley
Make like a time-traveller at Tunnel Creek National Park, 115km from Fitzroy Crossing. The creek flows under the limestone of the Napier Range, part of a 350-million-year-old reef system. Aboriginal folk-hero Jandamarra hid in the caves here more than 100 years ago. There’s a 750m water-worn tunnel and you can walk through it to the other side of Napier Range. Along the way, wade through pools, keeping an eye out for the odd freshwater crocodile, as well as bats and stalactites about your head.
TIP Take a torch and bathers, and wear reef-style shoes.

Kennedy Ranges | Golden Outback
For a wilderness experience and fabulous colour photos, head to Kennedy Range National Park, about 150km east of Carnarvon. The eroded sandstone plateau on the rim of the Gascoyne River catchment rises 100 metres above the valley, offering amazing views of the Outback. Pushed up from an ancient seabed millions of years ago, the range looms over the surrounding plains. Perfect for adventurers, attractions include bushwalking, exploring the gorges, red sand dunes, honeycomb-like rocks and spinifex-covered landscape and camping under the stars.
TIP The best time to visit is August through to September when the wildflowers are in full bloom.

Karlamilyi National Park | Pilbara
When they say this park is big, they mean big – the Perth metro area would fit into half of it. Formerly called Rudall River National Park, at 12,000sqkm in size, it’s one of the biggest national parks in the world. A vast, beautiful area of ancient ranges, remote water holes and gorges.
TIP The park is 260km from Newman and only accessible by robust 4WD. Consider joining a 4WD convoy run by a reputable tag-along tour operator.

King George Falls | The Kimberley
This dual waterfall has an uninterrupted vertical drop of 80 metres over a sandstone cliff, making it the tallest waterfall in WA. It’s also the most isolated. About 80km from the remote Kalumburu Aboriginal community, it’s only accessible by air or sea. Book your tour from Kununurra. It’s worth taking an aerial tour of the area, which allows for the best views of the falls.
TIP To see these falls in full force, head there from December through to early May, before they recede to a small flow.

Mackerel Islands | Pilbara
These 10 islands, 20km from the coast off Onslow and 1400km north of Perth, are surrounded by some of the world’s best coral reefs. Their pristine condition is largely due to their isolation - unlike reefs with more visitors, they haven’t suffered any damage. On top of that, the area is rich in nutrients and supports a variety of sponges, corals and other marine lifeforms. Those in the know say it’s as good as Ningaloo Reef. Snorkel or go turtle-watching or bird-watching. Fishers will enjoy the chance of catching all sorts of fish, including Spanish mackerel, snapper, spangled emperor, queenfish, coral trout, yellow fin tuna and cod.
TIP Access is by boat and plane from Onslow or plane from Karratha or Learmonth. There is accommodation on two of the islands.

Bell Gorge | The Kimberley
This is in King Leopold Range National Park, which covers nearly 400,000ha of some of Australia’s most lovely and inaccessible terrain. It was created over millions of years by water flowing from the range. The turn off to the gorge is 250km from Derby then it’s a 30-minute walk from the carpark. Next go on to Bell Creek, and its tall waterfall cascading into a deep swimming hole.
TIP Bring your bathers and your walking boots.

Mount Augustus | Golden Outback
The debate rages on, but we feel we’re safe in saying that Mt Augustus, the world’s largest monocline, is the biggest rock in the world! Rising 717m above the surrounding plain, and covering an area of almost 5000ha, it’s almost twice the size of that other ‘rock’ in the Northern Territory. Known by the local Aboriginal people as Burringurrah, it’s about 360km from Meekatharra. Roads are suitable for conventional vehicles for most of the year.
TIP Burringurrah Drive is a 49km driving circuit that provides views of our rock and takes you to gorges, caves, Aboriginal rock engravings and walking trails.

Millstream Chichester National Park | The Pilbara
Head to the oasis on your camel – well, your 4WD, really. This lush oasis of gorges and palm-fringed rockpools contrasts with the harsh surrounding landscape and offers some of the best bush camping spots in the region. The park covers about 200,000ha around the Fortescue River – the heartland of the Yindjibarndi people – and is about 120km from Karratha.
TIP Camping facilities include bush toilets and gas barbecues.

Abrolhos Islands | Coral Coast
For a tropical taster, head to these low-lying islands fringed by coral reefs – the southernmost point in Australia where tropical coral reef species occur. There are 122 islands with the most commonly known ones about 60km off the coast of Geraldton. Cool and warm currents meet here, allowing for a unique mix of tropical and temperate fish and corals. Bring your fishing rod and your snorkel to this wildly beautiful place. History buffs, visit the graves and rock forts left behind after the Dutch ship Batavia foundered in 1629 – Australia’s second-oldest shipwreck – leading to a wild tale of human savagery. And bird-watchers, it’s among Australia’s most important sites for breeding seabirds with more than 90 species identified here.
TIP Take in the islands’ beauty from above by boarding a scenic flight.

Mitchell Falls | The Kimberley
Majestic in any season but magnificent in the wet, the sight of thousands of tonnes of water crashing over four tiers into ‘ginormous’ emerald-green pools in a ruggedly beautiful landscape is unforgettable. This is what you’ll see at Mitchell Falls, the second-highest falls in WA – many people rate them the most spectacular in Australia. You can camp at a site in the Mitchell Falls National Park (it’s signposted from the Kalumburu Road) and walk in (about three kilometres). Warning: it’s saltwater croc country, so observe all signs. About 380km from Kununurra by 4WD, or book a flight.
TIP Those with a little pocket-cash can walk in then take a helicopter back over the falls and back to the camping ground. The view is amazing.

Windjana Gorge | The Kimberley
Fancy seeing loads of crocs up close? No, it’s not a scene from Alligator – these ‘freshies’ are more inclined to sun themselves than eat you. Windjana Gorge is home to a resident population of 70-plus wild freshwater crocodiles, and as the waterholes dry up, the crocodiles soak up the sun – so you can get up close and personal (not too close, though). Perfect for nature lovers and great for photography, the gorge has been carved out of the Napier Range by the Lennard River. You’ll also find corellas and many other birds and a colony of fruit bats. This ancient reef system is also said to be regarded by geologists as a classic feature of world geology. Windjana Gorge National Park is 145km from Derby.
TIP Don’t swim with the crocs – while they won’t eat you, they do have sharp teeth and they do bite. Not pleasant. While you’re there, take a stroll (about 500m or so) to Bandingan Rock and check out a variety of prehistoric crustaceans embedded in the limestone wall.

Emma Gorge | The Kimberley
Put on your hiking boots to get to stunning Emma Gorge, about 90km west of Kununurra in El Questro Wilderness Park. It’s an hour’s walk from the Emma Gorge Resort carpark (you don’t need to stay there for access). Watch for butterflies and other wildlife as you walk to this permanent waterhole with a waterfall lined with pandanus trees.
TIP Be prepared to cool off quickly – the water is cold.

Karijini National Park | Pilbara
This is the place for an adventure. The second-largest national park in the State, it offers activities from exploring dramatic gorges and ancient tunnels to swimming under waterfalls. Within the park is Mount Bruce, WA’s second-highest peak, which has spectacular views of the park. It’s 98km from Tom Price and you can take a day tour from there if you wish.
TIP You need to be fit and careful if climbing into the gorges.

Staircase To The Moon | The Kimberley
Everyone’s heard of the Staircase to the Moon phenomenon, but have you actually seen it? For three nights each month from March to October the full moon rises over Broome’s Roebuck Bay mud flats, creating this spectacle.
KNOW THIS On staircase nights there are food and craft stalls set up at Town Beach.

The Pinnacles | Coral Coast
The limestone structures making up the Pinnacles Desert are eerie, yet inspiring. Up to 3.5m high, they are thought to have been formed millions of years ago as seashells were broken down into sand.
KNOW THIS Visit at dusk or dawn or on a full moon for a completely different perspective.

Cable Beach | The Kimberley
Visitors come from all over the world to enjoy the aqua waters and lovely white sand of this beach, which stretches for 22km. May to October (now) is the best time to visit. Ride a camel or drink in the sunset.
KNOW THIS Sometimes during the wet, there are jellyfish and, occasionally, crocodiles.

Dinosaur footprints | The Kimberley
These prints, discovered in 1935 by a bunch of Girl Guides at Gantheaume Point near Broome, are famous and the spot has been named one of the best palaeontological sites in the world. See them at low tide or check out the plaster cast on the clifftop.
KNOW THIS A fun way to view them is by hovercraft tour.