Getaways
Scoop Traveller #21, January - July 2012
Katya Sawyer | 30 Jun 2010
Down South
Esperance + surf + weekender > Locals Dan Paris (photographer), Hilzeez (surfer) and Robert Mann (winemaker) give out the itineraries they hand out to their friends.
Coral Coast
Region escape + Ningaloo > Brianna Delaporte has been working in the WA travel industry (officially and unofficially) since she was 14. She shares her top Coral Coast travel ideas.
Pilbara
Outback + coast > Fourteen-year Pilbara local, and now its local tourism marketer, Liz Mortimore knows the best experiences for those travelling in the North West.
Kimberley
Rowley Shoals + heli-touring > Chris ‘Trippy’ Tucker (10 years at the helm of Great Escapes) and Craig Howson (20-year local) share their must-do Kimberley tours.
DAN PARIS | Five-day tour | Esperance
“Although I’m not technically a ‘local’ yet, I’m also not a tourist. I’ve lived here now for six years, but I’ve been visiting here for about 13. This is the kind of itinerary I send my friends and family when they first visit Esperance. It takes them to the best bits and gets them off the beaten track while allowing them a chance to experience some local flavours.” – Dan.
DAY ONE First stop has to be the Cape Le Grand National Park. Located an easy 40-minute drive from town, pure-white sand edges turquoise waters surrounded by impressive granite mountains. Now, if you’re the motivated, mountain-climbing sort, then Frenchmans Peak gives you a great bird’s-eye view of the whole park. The climb is about 1.5hr return and is a top way to work up an appetite for lunch. Next stop is Lucky Bay, which officially has the whitest sand in the country. The campsites here are a perfect place to stop. There are a couple of options for the afternoon. The reef in Lucky Bay contains the leafy sea dragon among other things if you feel like a dive or a snorkel. Alternatively, walk trails run along the coast of this park past beautiful coves and through pristine native vegetation, littered with wildflowers at all times of year. Every year in whale season (until October), I’ve seen whales in the corner of Le Grand Beach, a top place to watch the sun go down.
DAY TWO Heading east of Esperance, just after Condingup is Parmango Road, also known as the Balladonia Track. There were pastoral leases at Deralinya, Balbinya and Nanambinia, to name a few. It will take you about 1.5hr to reach the first one (Deralinya) from Cape Le Grand National Park. The remains in these places really give you a feel for the challenges faced by earlier settlers. Allow 40min-1hr to travel between homesteads (track conditions vary depending on the weather, so check at the tourist bureau before departure). The homesteads, although in various states of disrepair are beautifully preserved. Searching for fallen buildings, the remains of an old veggie patch, cattle or sheep yards and gravesites will release your inner explorer.
DAY THREE Mount Ridley is only about 40min from town. I’d heard about it from locals for a few years in passing, but this place was a huge surprise to me. Start your journey with a climb up Mount Ridley itself past its very own ‘wave rock’. The view from the top is endless. Come back to the base to the campsites for a picnic lunch shaded by casuarinas, quandongs and pincushion hakeas. After lunch, explore the tracks around the base of the mountain for some crazy rock formations and aboriginal art sites.
DAY FOUR Back in town, Esperance has important wetland systems: a mosaic of seven major and more than 90 smaller lakes. The Kepwari Trail, just on the edge of town is a lovely way to experience a small portion of the ecosystems supported here. There are bird hides, organic art installations, picnic sites and a boardwalk that takes you past some lakes and through bushland filled with wildflowers and wildlife.
DAY FIVE I recommend a lap of the tourist loop, followed by a stroll through the town. Winding past a stunning coastline, the Great Ocean Drive can be compared to nothing else. Closer to home, you’ll find the Rotary lookout for a view of the district. In town, a leisurely walk takes you past the old Bijou Theatre, to the restored Esperance Museum, brimming with heritage displays from earlier settlers to Skylab and beyond. The Museum Village is a little enclave of shops in buildings from yesteryear. Head to the Bay to enjoy a walk along the Tanker Jetty at sunset, and say ‘g’day’ to Sammy the seal while you are there.
Hillzeez | Surfing break | South West
Mark ‘Hillzeez’ Hills, the man behind the HotFM surf report and founder of Hillzeez Down South Surf Shop in Yallingup, Bunbury and Busselton, was born in Yallingup to a surfing family. Having surfed the area and beyond all his life, he has the insider on the best breaks.
DAY ONE | Yallingup
Stay at the Yallingup Beach Caravan Park: it has views straight out into the main breaks and bay, and it is usually breaking right out the front. After your surf, head to Caves House Hotel, which this time of year always has a wood fire. Yallingup beachfront also has free barbecues that you can use. Yallingup is more laidback than Margaret’s, and the surf is usually just straight out front, with usually a medium-sized swell if there is an offshore east-south-east – or even north-east winds. This time of year can offer perfect surfing conditions because we are getting all day offshores, which means you get clean surf all day.
DAY TWO | Bunker Bay
Head to here if there is a big swell and the winds go into the south or south west… The Farm has a great right- hander surf from the reef right into the beach, and is a great break for the beginner right through to the proficient surfer. Bunkers Bay is probably the most untouched bay in the area. Stick around after your surf and head to Bunkers Bay Cafe for sustenance. If you have your girlfriend or boyfriend in tow, then book an overnighter at Bunker Bay Resort (try the buffet breakfast).
DAY THREE | Injidup
Try out Injidup Car Park, which has a great break. It’s on Injidup Point and works with onshore and offshore winds. It’s surrounded by Leeuwin Naturaliste National Park and is probably one of the only places to go where you can take a sandboard and practise your land surfing – use your body board to go for a ride. If you are that way inclined, then a stop at the Injidup Spa Retreat is a great place to stay and relax. If you have time for some history, head to Wardan Discovery Centre (re-open August) to discover the area’s roots.
DAY FOUR | Canal Rocks
Swing over to Canal Rocks, which is where you will find two great breaks: Smith’s Beach and Super Tubes. If you are lucky enough to spot a helicopter in the sky, check the surf, as it might be Taj Burrows getting filmed being towed into surf for an upcoming movie. These two breaks are great, not only for the proficient surfer, but also for teaching kids. For those looking for more excitement, jump on a jetski, which are being used more and more often these days to get out to the big surf. If you have a mate with one of these machines, it’s certainly worth the experience. Tonight, stay at the Smiths Beach Resort, which is home to one of the funkiest bars in the area.
DAY FIVE | Windmills + Lighthouse
Spend your last day surfing Windmills and Lighthouse breaks, which are located at the end of Cape Naturaliste. This spot picks up even the smallest of swells and is a great spot to watch the early whale migration out there at the same time. It’s a mix of good beach breaks and reef breaks, and you are surrounded by world-class Sugarloaf Rock National Park. It’s easily accessible (the last left-hand dirt road off Cape Naturaliste Road – look for the signs).
HAMISH McLEAY | Dunsborough & Yallingup
Hamish came here in 1986 for a holiday for three months and loved it so much he stayed. He shares with us his top tips for spending three days in this area, with some great walking and fishing ideas.
DAY ONE Walking up here this time of year is a great experience. Choose the Meelup to Bunkers Bay walk. Drop off your car at Bunkers Bay, then have a driver take you back to Meelup to start your walk north along the coast. There is a trail up along the top of the beach, with some sand walking and rocky trail. Once you reach Bunkers Bay, stop for lunch, then keep heading north up to the lighthouse. About 300 wild seals live along this stretch of coastline in colonies below.
DAY TWO Start from the lighthouse to walk the official start of the Cape to Cape Trail to Yallingup. This is a great leg to do and you see lots of wildflowers. Here, the coast is rugged, with wild exposed coastline, so don’t forget your camera. And you will have access to some isolated un-named beaches – they are not that big, but they have great little sheltered rocky bays with great fishing. Throw in a line for mulloway or herring, Australian salmon or taylor. This walk is about 3.5 hours of a definite track (though rocky in places), but it’s well managed and you might spot some surfers at The 3 Bears (as well as other breaks along the coastline). Once you are in Yallingup, head to Caves House Hotel.
DAY THREE Go fishing. Great beach fishing is at Honey Combs, on Moses Rock Road, about 20min south of Yallingup. If you have a skipper’s ticket, charter a small dingy and head out early in morning just off Dunsborough: in a small-to-medium swell you may catch mullaway or, if you are lucky, a late-season salmon; or put in your boat at the Old Dunsborough boat ramp, off Beach Road – you don’t have to go far off the coast to get whiting, squid, herring and pink snapper. Remember to take out an esky, lots of water and a warm jumper because the wind can pick up and get cold out there on the water.
ROBERT MANN | Weekend | Margaret River
Enjoy a weekend in Margaret River with Robert Mann, senior winemaker & estate director of Cape Mentelle.
NIGHT ONE Head to Wino’s – it has a great wine list and share-style menu – or Must Restaurant (French bistro-style with sophisticated meals, a solid wine list and great cocktails). Settlers Tavern across the road is where you will find locals enjoying pub food. If it’s music you are after, Settlers has live music. There’s also Ze Arc restaurant – a local institution – and order the duck.
DAY TWO Eat the eggs Benedict at the Prevelly store, then head south down Caves Road: the Boranup State Forest is full of caves and karri forest. Join a guided tour of Lakes (pictured) or Mammoth cave. Eat lunch at Conto’s Beach, then head to Augusta. On the way, visit the Boranup Gallery for local art and craft in local timber. The road south is beautiful through the forest so take your time.
DAY THREE Drive north along Caves Road through forest, paddocks and vineyards, and you will reach the Wilyabrup region, with perhaps the highest density of wineries in the region. Stop here for a taste – it’s polite to buy at least one bottle. Adventurous types can canoe on Margaret River, join a bushtucker tour or learn Indigenous history. Also, don’t miss an evening at Surfer’s Point, Prevelly – arrive late afternoon, watch the surfers and enjoy a glass of wine on the grass above the cliffs.
BRIANNA DELAPORTE | Two-week escape | Coral Coast
Brianna has worked in tourism since her first high school job at 14. Since then, she has worked at the WA Visitor Centre and is now working at Australia’s Coral Coast.
DAY ONE Perth-Geraldton
Travel north along the Brand Highway through Dongara, Port Denison, and Greenough to Geraldton. Stroll to the foreshore – kids will love the water fun park! The HMAS Sydney Memorial has sweeping views across Geraldton.
DAY TWO Geraldton and surrounds
Chapman Valley boasts farming countryside and the looming Moresby ranges. The Chapman Valley Museum in Nanson features vintage cars, bikes and memorabilia. Geraldton has amazing windsurfing, or fly to the Abrolhos Islands for snorkelling and diving. The islands are sea bird breeding colonies.
DAY THREE Geraldton-Carnarvon
Head north to Carnarvon. Follow the Gascoyne Food Trail through town, sampling the produce on offer, including chocolate-coated Carnarvon bananas.
DAY FOUR Carnarvon–Exmouth
North of Carnarvon are the Blowholes, where sea swell sprays up to 20m into the air. Further north is Exmouth and Ningaloo Reef.
DAY FIVE Exmouth
Take a glass-bottom boat to the reef, or snorkel. Ask at Milyering Visitor Centre for the best snorkel spots. Turquoise Bay is a drift snorkel site – the current carries you parallel to shore, but then gets very strong, fast. After lunch, take a boat tour up Yardie Creek.
DAY SIX Exmouth–Coral Bay
Leave early for the eastern side of Cape Range National Park: Shothole Canyon and Charles Knife Canyon have amazing scenery. Continue south to Coral Bay. If you’re there by 3.30, head to the beach where schools of norwest snapper come in. Twenty minutes walk away is a nursery of up to 200 reef sharks (between October and March).
DAY SEVEN Coral Bay
Hire a kayak and paddle to the reef for great snorkel sites. About six metres deep, the coral walls rise up from the sea floor every way you look. Not keen on getting wet? Glass-bottom boats head out daily.
DAY EIGHT Coral Bay–Shark Bay
Snorkel at Bills Bay then drive to the Shark Bay World Heritage Area. Stop for the stromatolites at Hamelin Pool, and at Shell Beach. Ocean Park has awesome marine life. Get accommodation in Denham and watch the sunset.
DAY NINE Shark Bay
Bottlenose dolphins feeding starts around 8.15am. Head down to Nanga Bay for fishing or cruise to Dirk Hartog Island. Francois Peron National Park has stunning scenery, or see the region from above – flights give the best view of the Zuytdorp Cliffs. And there’s always Monkey Mia Dolphin Resort to visit!
DAY TEN Shark Bay-Kalbarri
Head south to Kalbarri for an afternoon surf at Jacques Point. Relax under the stars at the cinema, located at Rainbow Jungle parrot sanctuary.
DAY ELEVEN Kalbarri
Explore the magnificent Murchison River Gorge of Kalbarri National Park. Hire canoes in the afternoon and paddle upstream, or go fishing.
DAY TWELVE Kalbarri
Go deep sea fishing tours off Kalbarri. Extreme tours offer abseiling or canoeing, sand boarding or quad bikes. Or just laze on Chinamans Beach!
DAY THIRTEEN Kalbarri-Jurien Bay
Watch volunteers feed the pelicans at the beach around 8.45am. Go south and look for the Pink Lake. Camp at Sandy Cape Recreational Park, north of Jurien Bay.
DAY FOURTEEN Jurien Bay-Perth
Head south to Cervantes and the Pinnacles Desert. Learn more about these mystical formations at the Desert Discovery Centre before making the final journey to Perth.
One-week Ningaloo escape | Coral Coast
DAY ONE Carnarvon–Exmouth
Take the early morning flight from Perth to Learmonth Airport and pick up a hire car. Check in, and familiarise yourself with Exmouth.
DAY TWO Exmouth
Head out to Vlaming Head Lighthouse for sunrise, then to Cape Range National Park. Have cash ready to enter the park – it’s $11 per vehicle. Lakeside campground, near the visitor centre, 400m south of the beach access is a great snorkelling spot. For lunch, picnic at Turquoise Bay, then head around the corner to the snorkel drift. My favourite coral bombie is about 100m south of the drift beach access, less than 10m from the shore. Our last snorkel for the day is at Oyster Stacks.
DAY THREE Exmouth
Divers can take a charter to the outer reef, the Muiron Islands or the Navy Pier. Considered one of the top 10 shore dives in the world, this is a working defence facility, so check with Exmouth Visitor Centre first. Alternatively explore Cape Range National Park, in your own 4WD or an organised tour. The main sights are Shothole Canyon and Charles Knife Canyon. On the western side of the cape, Yardie Creek has walking trails.
DAY FOUR Exmouth–Coral Bay
Drive to Coral Bay (about two hours) for an underwater garden of marine life. Take an afternoon snorkel right off the beach and stay at the caravan parks or resort accommodation.
DAY FIVE Coral Bay
Stay for swimming or snorkelling. Anglers can join a fishing safari. Adventurous types can join a diving trip or manta-ray tour. Take a 4WD along the coast or hire a quad bike for rugged adventure.
DAY SIX Coral Bay
To explore further out, take a glass-bottomed boat trip or why not join a snorkelling tour? Be sure to have the camera ready on the tripod for sunset.
DAY SEVEN Head back to Learmonth to drop off the car and fly home.
LIZ MORTIMORE | 9-day Warlu Way adventure | Pilbara
Liz has spent 14 years in the Pilbara and has been working in the tourism industry for two years. She suggests driving the Warlu Way, a route that takes in the Coral Coast and Kimberley, as well as the Pilbara.
DAY ONE At Coral Bay board a glass-bottom boat for a view of Ningaloo Reef’s diverse marine life.
DAY TWO Drive 153km to Exmouth where you can try your luck at beach, reef or game fishing.
DAY THREE Drive to Tom Price and tour Rio Tinto’s open-cut mine. Then head out of town to the awe-inspiring Karijini National Park. Walk into the depths of Dales Gorge.
DAY FOUR Explore the west side including stunning Kalimina Gorge and spectacular Oxer Lookout at the junction of four gorges. If fit, descend to the bottom of Hancock Gorge, swim in freshwater pools and eat a picnic among some of the oldest rocks in the world. Later, enjoy dinner under a million stars.
DAY FIVE Head to Millstream-Chichester National Park along the unsealed road next to the longest privately owned railway in the world. At the park visit the old homestead, now the visitor centre. Walk along one of the trails around to Jirndawurrunha Pool.
DAY SIX Head to Dampier Archipelago & Burrup Peninsula for a cruise. Or hire a boat and go out for some serious fishing. Visit Deep Gorge near Hearson’s Cove to see Aboriginal rock engravings.
DAY SEVEN Continue to Point Samson, stopping in Roebourne enroute. Step back in time with a visit to the Old Gaol Museum. Head out to Cossack and see its historical buildings. Head to Point Samson Peninsular and enjoy a stroll then a sunset drink and a feast of seafood.
DAY EIGHT Drive north to Port Hedland via the historic copper-mining town of Whim Creek. Tour BHP Billiton’s port facilities. Heading north, visit the Cape Keraudren Coastal Reserve, a haven for land and sea animals. Make camp for the night at pristine Eighty Mile Beach and enjoy the breathtaking sunset.
DAY NINE The final leg takes you into the town of Broome. Go to the crocodile park to marvel at the huge crocodilians, swim at Cable Beach or peruse the art galleries. Finally enjoy sunset drinks overlooking the mud flats of Roebuck Bay then soak up the atmosphere at one of the many alfresco restaurants.
Long weekend escape | Pilbara
DAY ONE Arrive in Karratha and pack your sunscreen and bathers for an inland adventure. Hire a car with a full fuel tank and pack food and water. You’ll be heading for the 20,000ha Millstream-Chichester National Park, the unknown jewel of the Pilbara. It’s 142km away; head to the North West Coastal Highway, turn right, then left onto the Warlu Way. Detour left at the sign for Python Pool. Enjoy a swim then travel back the way you came following the signs to the park. There are bush-style camping facilities so head to the Visitor Centre and find ranger Scott Godley, who has a wealth of knowledge about the Park.
DAY TWO Explore tranquil gorges and rockpools, which hold fresh water year-round, via walking trails. You can also swim, canoe or laze on the water’s edge. At day’s end enjoy the spectacular sunset at Cliff Lookout.
DAY THREE Head to Gregory’s Gorge, one of the most gorgeous gorges you’ll ever see, just outside the park. There are fabulous scenic walks along the river and up the gorges while the colour of the cliffs will fascinate photographers. Whatever you do, chances are it will be without the crowds of other campers so relax and enjoy the serenity of this beautiful place.
CRAIG HOWSON | Kimberley by air
Managing Director of North Star Cruises, Craig has been taking care of luxury cruises (with helicopter) for over 20 years – here, he shares with us his ultimate five-day Kimberley tour from Broome.
ARRIVAL Arrive in Broome on an afternoon flight. Visit the local pearl shops and watch the magnificent sunset over Cable Beach.
DAY ONE A boat is positioned at Clerke Reef, Rowley Shoals. Catch a morning flight on a sea-plane and arrive at the Rowley Shoals for sport fishing, then picnic on the beach. Go for a dive or do some drift snorkelling. In the afternoon, the sea-plane drops you for a night at Eco Beach.
DAY TWO At sunrise, a helicopter flies you over the Fitzroy River, stopping to catch barramundi, swim in fresh pools and picnic. Finish at Mornington Wilderness Camp, off the Gibb River Road.
DAY THREE At sunrise, fly to the Walcott Inlet. Spend the morning heli-fishing for barramundi, and swimming under waterfalls on the Isdell and Charnley rivers. Fly along the Prince Regent River, stopping at the Kings Cascades before ending up at a scenic location overlooking Prince Fredrick Harbour.
DAY FOUR Wake up for a swim, then helicopter to One Tree Beach. Spend the morning fishing and mud-crabbing with our mate Robert ‘Bluey’ Vaughn. Helicopter to Eagle Falls for a heli-picnic at the top of the waterfall and have a swim in its huge pools. Then fly to the bush camp at Faraway Bay.
DAY FIVE Fly into the King George River and land on top of yacht True North just after showering at the fountain of youth. Climb to the top of the falls, then the True North chefs cook lunch. Fly to a secret heli-fishing hole on the Pentecost River and finish the day at the Homestead at El Questro Station. In the morning fly into the Bungle Bungles and have a morning walk through the gorges before a scenic flight over Lake Argyle. Finish in Kununurra to buy some diamonds before flying home!
CHRIS ‘TRIPPY’ TUCKER Rowley Shoals dive | The Kimberley
To help us celebrate the 10th anniversary of The Great Escape Charter Company, owner Chris ‘Trippy’ Tucker has pulled together the ultimate diving itinerary – his favourite of the tours on offer through his passion (read business).
DAY ONE Arrive at Clerk Reef at 8am and anchor up inside the lagoon. First up is ‘The Blue Lagoon’, an easy dive to familiarise with the new environment and equipment. Average depth is 12m, sloping down to a sandy bottom and coral bommies at 30m.
DAY TWO The main boat drops you on the outer lagoon to drift in through The Channel to Clerke Reef. This drift dive starts at 40m to go through the channel at 12m. Lunch inside the lagoon where the dive ended before heading for an afternoon drift along the edge of the atoll. Before last light, snorkel the dinghy channels: it’s like flying underwater as you cruise at 6 knots.
DAY THREE Dive the Western Wall before breakfast. The first half of the dive is deep, the last half in the 10m range. Over breakfast, the boat heads towards Jimmy goes to China: a 40m wall encrusted with large gorgonians and black corals. Over lunch, it’s off to ‘Tiger Alley’ for a drift dive. Catch the sunset on Bedwell Island’s sandy beach with rare red-tailed tropic birds.
DAY FOUR First dive at ‘The Crevasse’, a similar formation as the Western Wall. Then cruise over to Mermaid Reef. Once there, dive ‘V in the wall’, a big bommie on the reef edge. Last dive before heading into the lagoon is ‘The Cod Hole’, about 18m deep with lots of bommies and a few cracks.
DAY FIVE The most spectacular dive, the Wall, is a drift dive, the wall is a sheer vertical from the reef that breaks the water’s surface down to 110m, sloping off sharply with a rubble bottom. This is a great area to spot large sharks, especially the rare greater hammerhead. Head down to ‘The Caves’ for a dive before lunch. After lunch it’s ‘The Net’. The name comes from the fact that it is a complex dive to navigate and that an old piece of trawling net was found on one corner of the reef. The dive goes down to 40m, average depth 18m. Finally there’s a twilight dive before packing your gear and heading back to Broome.